Technical Support

Is your keypad showing an empty keg, despite having beer in the Empty Keg Detector? A bad reed switch may be to blame. How to replace a faulty Empty Keg Detector reed switch, using a Phillips-head screwdriver, wire strippers, two telephone splicers, and a pipe wrench. Note: This is for the bottom-mounted, brown cable reed switch. For the side-mounted, grey cable switches, watch here: https://youtu.be/gHifgTqtz4E For additional help, give us a call at 888-618-0486. 0:30 Removing the faulty switch from the EKD 1:30 Cutting the faulty switch wires 1:58 Inserting the new reed switch 2:46 Splicing the new cabling with the old cabling 4:58 Testing

Beer not flowing? Does the beer pump just click away on the panel? It's possible the beer pump needs replaced. Although uncommon, it's a fairly straightforward process. Replacing a Flojet beer pump on your Bottoms Up long-draw draft beer system, using a flathead screwdriver and 5/16 nut driver & drill. Replacing the Flojet reversal valve is also featured. Note: Purge the line of any beer or liquid before removing any components. This can be done by untapping the keg and filling a vessel on the dispenser until the Empty Keg Detector lights flash. 0:10 Replacing reversal valves 0:20 Closing all gas valves 0:47 Removing "gas in" and "gas out" connections via tabs 1:27 Removing reversal valve 90 (DISENGAGE KEG TAP BEFORE) 2:30 Removing the pump 3:08 Installing the new pump 3:50 Reconnect reversal valve 4:38 Connect "gas in" and "gas out" connections

How to remove an existing Bottoms Up circuit board and replace it with a new one, using a Phillips-head screwdriver and small flathead screwdriver. For replacement parts or more information, give us a call at (888) 618-0486. 0:47 Tools needed 1:16 Disconnecting the power supply & bezel screw 2:00 Removing the EKD wires (for long-draw system users) 3:06 Removing the board-to-board jumper 3:27 Overview of connectors 4:06 Removing the solenoid connector 4:40 Removing the cup sensor connector (blue) 4:48 Removing the LED connectors 5:15 Removing the flow sensor connector (red) 5:43 Removing the bezel bracket 6:05 Inserting the new board (NOTE: you can also insert the bezel screws at this time) 6:27 Insert flow sensor (red) 6:37 Insert LEDs 7:00 Insert cup sensor (blue) 7:13 Insert solenoid 7:19 Insert jumper cable 7:30 Bezel screws, bracket & ground 9:11 Dispenser power 9:18 Admire your work (for short-draw, kegerator users) 9:25 Connecting EKD wires to terminal (for long-draw users)

Not pouring any beer? The duckbill valve in your keg tap may be stuck and preventing CO2 from flowing. Remove the tap from the keg and engage the handle - does gas hiss freely from the tap? If not, watch this video on how to fix it. For additional help, give us a call at 888-618-0486.

Is a line pouring less beer than you programmed? Although rare, a bad flow sensor could be to blame. How to diagnose and replace a faulty sensor. If you need a replacement flow sensor, give us a call at (888) 618-0486. While waiting for your new sensor, you can still operate your dispenser by manually pressing the Start/Stop button while in Prime/Purge mode.

Is your system not pouring beer? Put the dispenser into Prime/Purge mode, and push down on the cup coupler. Do you get four green lights around the Start/Stop button? If not, the cup sensor may need replaced. How to diagnose and replace a faulty cup sensor. Checking a faulty slider magnet on the cup coupler is also addressed. To order a replacement cup sensor, call us at (888) 618-0486. 0:12 Diagnosing a faulty cup sensor 1:19 Checking the slider magnet 2:19 Confirming a bad cup sensor 2:27 Understanding the cup sensor 3:47 Depressurizing the line 6:24 Tools needed 7:40 Unplugging the cup sensor 8:20 Removing the case nut 9:47 Pushing down on the bottom block 10:30 View from below 11:20 Removing the cup sensor 11:43 Scotch tape or insulation sticking to the sensor 12:14 Adding the new cup sensor 13:10 Seating the sensor and pushing the bottom block into place 13:30 Replacing the case nut 15:13 Plugging the sensor in 15:34 Testing

Does your system pour less beer than you programmed? The flow meter inside the valve may be obstructed. How to diagnose a stuck flow meter and remove objects from inside the valve. Please note: You will need to replace the diaphragm when removing the bottom block. Contact us at (888) 618-0486 for any replacement parts. 0:14 Diagnosing a stuck flow meter 1:24 Manually opening the valve to feel for blockage 2:42 Keypad lights indicating a stuck flow meter 3:05 Understanding the flow meter & keypad lights 4:17 Depressurizing the line 5:38 Tools & parts needed 6:45 Removing the bottom block assembly 8:00 Removing the diaphragm 8:35 Identifying the obstruction 9:20 Replacing the diaphragm 10:46 Placing the bottom block assembly 13:00 The shim 15:38 Testing

Are you replacing an older model of our Empty Keg Detector? How to replace a side-mounted, grey wire Empty Keg Detector with a bottom-mounted, brown wire Empty Keg Detector and splice the reed switch cables together. For replacement parts or assistance, give us a call at (888) 618-0486. 0:42 Empty the line from liquid/pressure 1:50 Tools needed 2:38 Remove the beer nuts 3:35 Remove the old EKD from the panel 4:15 Remove the EKD drain line 4:31 Inserting the new EKD 4:52 Attaching the beer nuts 5:55 EKD reed switch overview 6:51 Stripping the reed switch cables 8:15 Splicing the lines 9:45 Testing the EKD lights on the circuit board 10:20 Swapping out a bottom-mounted reed switch (if needed)

What can the flashing lights on a Bottoms Up circuit board tell you about technical problems? Here, we give an overview on faulty reed switches, cup sensors and flow sensors, stuck flow meters, sticky linkage or low pressure, as well as how to fix the problem. 0:20 Dispenser power flashing green 0:35 Empty Keg Detector/faulty reed switch 1:52 Cup sensor/cup coupler 3:22 Flow sensor/stuck flow meter 5:49 LEDs 6:07 No CO2 pressure 6:57 Linkage not attached 7:57 Sticky linkage