Kegerators:

Long-draw systems with beer pumps (or a "Straight CO2" system):

Long-draw systems without beer pumps (a "Blended gas" system):

The most common issue is sticky linkage of the valve - simply put, the valve is stuck closed.

Over time, the bottom block assembly can accrue grime or grit that hinders the activation of the solenoid, thus hindering the opening of the valve. Use warm (not hot!), soapy water around the solenoid opening to clear any debris.

Also check to see if the ramp slide has grease on it. We use Loctite 8034, a food-grade and synthetic grease.

If no beer comes out when you open the valve manually (via the linkage), make sure your keg is tapped and gas valve is open.

If beer comes out when you manually open the valve, but doesn't when trying to use a cup, it could be a couple things - a faulty solenoid or a faulty cup sensor.

To test the cup sensor:

To replace the solenoid:

A gasket inside the valve, the diaphragm, flexes up and down with the plunger assembly. Over time, this can wear down and remain stuck in the “up” position. You’ll hear the valve close, yet beer will continue to pour until it flexes back down.

Most likely, the diaphragm inside the valve is worn and sticking in the “up” position, allowing leaks. If a diaphragm is installed incorrectly, the plunger assembly won’t align properly as well.

If you're getting small bubbles out of the top of the plunger head/case nut, check the psi on your regulator. Keg pressure should be between 12-15psi.

Additionally, (though not as common) a gasket at the top of the plunger assembly can wear down or dry out over time, needing replaced. This can cause beer to seep out of the top.

Most likely, the glycol pump key has worn down. This means that, despite showing cold temps and running like normal, no glycol is being circulated through the system or along the beer lines.

The motor and pump can be directly connected until your replacement key arrives.

One of two things could be happening. Is the white float in the Empty Keg Detector not floating? It could have sediment on it, causing it to stick down or not float. Simply knock the top of the EKD on the black cap - not the clear tube - to help break it loose.

If the float is floating, the reed switch (attached to a brown or grey cable coming from the bottom cap of the EKD) could be defective.

The flow meter, a white turbine on the plunger assembly, could be obstructed, or defective. This results in the flow sensor + circuit board not accurately reading the amount of liquid going through the line. Pour some liquid through the line while in Prime/Purge mode. Do the red and green lights around the Start/Stop button swirl or pulse, or do the S/M/L green buttons pulse? If not, a disconnect between the flow meter and flow sensor is happening.

Flow sensors rarely go out, so let's try the flow meter first.

Here are some fixes.

For nine-button circuit boards: Put the dispenser into Manual Start/Program Size mode. Set a cup onto the cup coupler and push it down. Press and hold the intended size button for about three seconds, then release when liquid comes out. Press the Start/Stop button when you’ve reached your intended fill level.

For three-button circuit boards: Press and hold the size button, then set your vessel down on the cup coupler. Liquid should dispense. Release the size button when you’ve reached the intended fill level.

Older models of our Empty Keg Detectors use a white/blue purge valve, which can break open eventually. This is an easy fix.

Note: plastic and metal purge valve ports are not compatible.

New kegerators and long-draw installations come with a cleaning kit. If you don't have one, give us a call at (888) 618-0486.

Kegerators:

Straight CO2 long-draw (panels with beer pumps):

Blended gas long-draw setups:

Are you having trouble with a foamy keg? Are your Empty Keg Detector lights flashing, despite just tapping a fresh keg?

Here, we go through the scenarios that cause foam and ways to fix the problem. Be sure to check your keg pressure!

Kegerators and long-draw setups with beer pumps should be between 12-15psi.

Blended gas long-draw setups will have a sticker with the recommended setting on the panel regulator knobs - usually around 27psi.

Try swapping kegs. Put a keg that's working fine on the troublesome line. If things pour fine, you may have a warm/overcarb'd keg.

If your beer is also pouring warm, you could have a glycol chiller issue. Here's the most common fix:

There could be an electrical short happening. Often, this is a result of a faulty LED or liquid seeping into the LED assembly. Power cords that have been smashed or damaged by kegs, or poor grounding on the first circuit board bezel bracket can be at fault too.

The best thing to do (although it can be tedious) is to test each connection at each circuit board, going left to right.

Our valves require a special attachment to agitate your nitrogen-dispensed beer, such as Guinness or Left Hand Milk Stout. Modifying your existing dispenser to pour these beers requires additional equipment and specific setups. Give us a call at (888) 618-0486 for resources on this equipment and the installation process.

European beers such as Stella Artois, Heineken and Guinness require special keg taps. Our systems come standard with Sankey D style taps - if you want to pour these beers, give us a call at (888) 618-0486.

Pressure changes, freezing temps or collisions can crack your Empty Keg Detector. Fortunately, the replacement process isn't too complicated. Here, we go over the process for both styles of long-draw setups and learn a few things along the way.

Please refer to the glycol chiller manufacturer or a local refrigeration company for servicing your unit. Most new chillers have a three to five-year warranty on their compressors.

UBC glycol chillers (black) - https://beer-co.us/contact-us

Micromatic kegerators and glycol chillers (silver) - https://www.micromatic.com/en-us/contact-us

A gasket inside the valve, the diaphragm, flexes up and down with the plunger assembly. Over time, this can wear out and not seal correctly. Often, beer will leak through the center of the blue bottom block assembly on the underside of the dispenser.

For replacement diaphragms, give us a call at (888) 618-0486.

The cup coupler assembly attaches to the dispenser via the black delrin nut. If the nut is threaded too tight, it can strip the threads. Additionally, not removing the cup coupler for routine cleaning can cause grime to cake on the assembly and cause difficulty removing it.

Give us a call at (888) 618-0486 for replacement delrin nuts.

We're glad you asked.